Hi, I’m Dr. Karyn! Read my introduction to learn more about me and meet my five hilarious cats: Clutch, Cyril, Alex, Zelda, and Zazzles.

Disclaimer: The images used in this article are to demonstrate scruff-holding. The cats in the images have been handled carefully, spoiled rottenly, and given ridiculous amounts of chicken for agreeing to pose for me. They were given space and opportunity to leave whenever they had enough, and their welfare remains my top priority.

It wasn’t all that long ago that it was commonplace to see cats held, restrained, even carried by the scruff of their neck. We would see mother cats carrying their kittens in this way, so how could it possibly be harmful? And for the most part, our cats didn’t seem to mind…or did they?

In recent years, animal behaviorists have come to realize that rather than making them feel calm and relaxed, picking a cat up by the scruff may actually trigger feelings of fear, stress, and helplessness, resulting in the floppy reaction we often see. Sure, this might make them easier to handle, but does that make it okay?

There are a number of movements and organizations aiming to minimize or stop the use of the scruff hold in veterinary practice, and while this is an admirable goal, it is not always realistic or practical. Some animal workers have vowed to never scruff a cat, no matter the circumstances, which I often found challenging in practice. Even the International Cat Care organization acknowledges that using a scruff hold to restrain a cat is sometimes necessary, as described in their Scruff Free Campaign Pledge:

“International Cat Care’s ‘scruff-free’ campaign is focused on avoiding the routine use of scruffing as a means of restraining a cat, which unfortunately is still practised all too frequently. Our campaign refers specifically to the routine use of scruffing when handling cats. There may be exceptional circumstances in which there is a real and imminent risk of injury to a person where very brief heavy restraint, such as scruffing, may be necessary. However, these occasions should be rare and exceptional, never ever routine.”

What I often found frustrating was when I needed to quickly and safely perform a procedure, give an injection, or examine an injury on a fractious, aggressive cat, and my supporting staff would flat-out refuse to use a scruff hold. This would inevitably result in a more protracted, stressful, and dangerous approach to a problem that could have easily been addressed by briefly applying an effective form of restraint.

So although it may not be popular, I strongly believe that, in certain circumstances, a scruff hold is the best and safest form of restraint.

The Lesser of Two Evils

I don’t necessarily believe that ‘the ends justifies the means’ when it comes to scruffing a cat, but I do believe that it is sometimes the ‘lesser of two evils’. Yes, scruffing a cat may be an unpleasant cause of stress, discomfort, and helplessness for a cat, but if the alternative means:

• Getting the cat back in the following day after being given a sedative at home
• Spending more time trying to towel wrap an already-distressed feline
• Risking injury to cat or human
• Using sedatives or general anesthetic for something that should take less than 30 seconds
• Costing an owner hundreds of dollars to remove a thorn, remove a loose claw, or remove a small patch of matted fur
• I will choose the option that causes the least amount of distress to all involved. And sometimes, that means I scruff.

When Is Scruffing Okay?

Rather than have a blanket rule of ‘no scruffing, ever’, I would much rather have some guidelines laid out so that people know when scruffing is and isn’t appropriate, and how to safely scruff hold a cat. So that’s what I’m going to do.

How To Correctly Scruff Hold A Cat

If you are not confident and swift in your approach, you are unlikely to be successful, so make sure that you are ready to hold your cat firmly, and ensure you have your next step already planned.

If possible, start by rubbing the cat’s scruff. This avoids startling them by just grabbing the scruff, and allows you to assess whether or not they are particularly sensitive in this area. If the cat resents being touched over their neck or shoulders, you should not attempt the scruff hold, as this will only make the situation worse.

For the scruff-hold to be effective, you need to have a firm grip of a handful of the scruff – do not pinch the skin, or just pick up a tiny section. This will be more painful, and will not give you any control.

There are three main positions you will then need:

The carry: Never lift a cat by the scruff without placing a hand under their chest or behind their bottom. If you can do so safely, cradle them against your body to give them some extra security.

The hold: This is when you are restraining the cat to allow someone to do or check something quickly or safely. Keep the head out of the way of the other person, and use your other hand to secure the front legs at the level of the elbow.

The medicate: Ideally, this should also be a 2-person maneuver, with the second person keeping the front legs from getting involved. Use your non-dominant hand to hold the scruff and tilt the head back as far as possible. This will make it easier to pull the lower jaw down and administer the medication.

This method of medicating a cat should only be used for short-term or one-off treatments. If your cat is on long-term medication, scruffing them on a daily basis will only reinforce their resentment towards being medicated, so you need to find an alternative method.

Sometimes I Scruff

Not everyone will agree with me, and that’s okay. But I do think that sometimes we can cause more stress and harm by avoiding the scruff hold, when briefly using this unpopular technique is actually the best method.

I absolutely agree that it should not be used often, or to carry out lengthy procedures, but I do think that it is more practical and realistic to say avoid using the scruff hold, rather than saying never.

The post Sometimes I Scruff: Thoughts On a Controversial But Practical Technique by Dr. Karyn Kanowski BVSc MRCVS (Veterinarian) appeared first on Catster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Catster.com.

Hi, I’m Dr. Karyn! Read my introduction to learn more about me and meet my five hilarious cats: Clutch, Cyril, Alex, Zelda, and Zazzles.

This is an argument that has been going on for as long as people started keeping pets. Pet owners being asked to choose a side, pick a species, identify themselves as either cat or dog people. Although there are many out there in my position, lucky enough to share their lives with both cats and dogs, people who claim not to have a favorite are being as honest as parents who say they don’t have a favorite child – come on!

You might assume from the title that I have declared myself a ‘cat person’, but you might want to wait until you’ve read Part Two: Why Dogs Are Better Than Cats before you decide. And no, I’m not going to tell you which I am – spoilers!

Instead, I present to you a (relatively) unbiased argument for the affirmative team on why cats are better than dogs.

Cats Are Better Than Dogs Because…

• They are quite self-sufficient and relatively low-maintenance
• They are practically born toilet-trained
• They don’t need to be taken out for walks
• They don’t bark
• They don’t jump up on your guests
• They don’t hump your furniture, your leg, your guest’s leg…
• They can be left alone for long periods of time (even overnight if you have planned and prepared appropriately)
• Their purring releases endorphins in them and us
• They are emotionally intelligent
• They keep themselves clean
• They have evolved a form of communication (the meow) specifically for humans
• Kittens are undeniably, unquestionably, adorable

Of course, living with cats isn’t all hugs and rainbows, and there are some negatives (or perceived negatives) to life in the company of felinekind. For instance:

• They can somehow make us feel judged, unwanted, or surplus to requirement
• They leave hair on EVERYTHING
• They leave claw marks on clothing, carpets, and furniture
• They bring us gifts we don’t want (eg. dead – or almost dead – mice, birds, rats etc)
• They can be aloof – affection is usually on their terms only
• They sometimes express stress, irritation, territorialism, or dissatisfaction by peeing on things
• They vomit
• They are often most active between 12am and 3am
• It can be challenging to keep indoor cats in, and outdoor cats out
• They can cause conflict between neighbors if they use their garden as a litter box

Who Identifies As A Cat Person?

I have long believed that even people without pets can be categorized as cat or dog people, though there will always be exceptions and outliers. Broadly speaking, a cat person tends to be someone who:

• is more introvert than extrovert
• is wary of strangers
• doesn’t make friends easily, but makes them for life
• prefers the comforts of home
• likes to re-read favorite books and re-watch favorite movies and tv shows
• is cautious, reflective, and considers things carefully
• prefers a warm spot in a cool home, rather than central heating
• will turn on a fan or air-conditioner to be able to stay under a blanket
• likes (and may even have) dogs, but doesn’t have a close affinity with them
• prefers yoga, pilates, or meditation over cardio workouts
• loves cats

Am I a Cat Person or a Dog Person?

I would have to say that most, if not all, of the traits above describe me quite well, but with five cats and five dogs, am I so easily categorized? You’ll just have to check out Part Two.

The post The Great Debate Part One: Why Cats Are Better Than Dogs by Dr. Karyn Kanowski BVSc MRCVS (Veterinarian) appeared first on Catster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Catster.com.

Hi, I’m Dr. Karyn! Read my introduction to learn more about me and meet my five hilarious cats: Clutch, Cyril, Alex, Zelda, and Zazzles.

I often find myself feeling envious of my cats. No responsibilities, all meals provided, nothing to do but laze the day away. So this week, I decided to take my envy and turn it into action, spending the day in Cyril’s shoes (or paws). It turns out that it’s not all it’s cracked up to be.

02:00: I’m feeling a bit lonely, so I’m going to find my human and spend 15 minutes getting comfortable on their back.

02:30: Bored now. I’m going back to my room to sleep there instead.

04:00: Feeling a bit peckish; I might run in and out of the human’s bedroom a few times, see if that generates any food.

04:30: Food mission was not a success. Time to get the others involved.

04:45: Commence ‘Operation Wake The Humans’. The ginger one and I take turns chasing each other, and the black one. Sometimes the torti one joins in as well.

04:55: Humans have stirred and grumbled, but no move to get out of bed.

05:00: Tiny dog jumps on the floor. Human is up and follows it downstairs. Irritating that tiny dog is able to achieve what I had not, but at least food should arrive shortly. Very excited.

05:15: Food arrives and I am very excited to see that it is the same thing as yesterday, and the day before that, and the day before that, and the day before that…… Yum!

05:25: Time for a nap.

07:30: Humans are more active now. Maybe today will be the day they forget that we have already been fed? No? Well, there’s always tomorrow. Time for another nap.

09:45: One of the humans is sitting at the desk and their hands are moving a lot. Perhaps they are cold. I shall help by sitting on them.

09:50: Human doesn’t seem to realize that I’m trying to help. I will persevere.

10:00: Human has rejected my assistance. Instead, I deposit a large poop in the box beside the desk. The human seems to be very pleased, making all sorts of sounds as they gather it up for their collection. I wonder what they do with them all.

12:45: Feeling bored and a bit hungry. Check bowl – no food. Another disappointment. I’ll have a drink and lick my butt, and check back later.

13:00: Still no food. Time to fall dramatically onto my back in the middle of the room and lie there for 30 minutes.

13:30: One of the tiny dogs sniffs my tail, so I swish and twitch it enticingly. He makes an annoying yappy sound, so I roll over and tap his head. He runs away crying. What a wuss.

13:40: Tiny dog returns with tiny friend, and they chase me up the stairs. The cheek of them! When I reach the top I turn around to watch them, and they run away. They are not very brave.

14:00: Bowl check – still no food. I’ll give it another hour, but then it will be time to commence our afternoon demands. In the meantime, I shall nap.

15:30: Engage shadow mode – where human goes, I go. They try to shut me out of the small room with the porcelain chair, but I manage to squeeze through the gap in the door.

17:30: Human is making preparations in the kitchen. Numerous bowls and foods appearing on the counter. I shall inspect them all. Large dog jumps up and licks my face. Disgusting creature.

17:45: Dinner time! I am very excited to see that it is the same thing as last night, and the night before that, and the night before that, and the night before that…… Yum!

18:00: Lazily washing my face and paws, and trying to decide if I shall vomit some of my dinner on the carpet tonight. Not tonight, maybe tomorrow. Instead, I’ll have a nap. A pile of warm towels has just appeared on the bed, so I will make use of that.

19:30: I am woken by the sound of the human scraping around in the litter box, so I wait patiently for them to finish their scavenging before going in for a large pee. Human lets out a sigh, presumably relieved that there will be more waste products for them to harvest.

20:00: Human is watching the noisy picture on the wall, so I sit in front and have a wash. I wait for them to say something about making a cup of tea, and take this as my cue to curl up on their lap for a nap.

21:30: Human hasn’t moved, so I will stay here for a while longer.

22:00: Can’t sleep as human is jiggling their knee, so I stretch and disappear upstairs. The human follows but goes into the room with the porcelain chair.

23:00: Time for a last-minute wrestling match with the ginger one before turning in for the night. I check the bowl in case any food has appeared, but sadly, it is empty. Oh well, I shall check again in a few hours…

I’ve realized that, although Cyril’s life looks pretty chilled and free from stress, it’s also pretty dull. I’m also not sure that I could eat the same food every day with the level of enthusiasm displayed by my cats; not having autonomy over my meals would be a deal breaker for me! I could probably get used to all the naps though!

The post Cyril For a Day: Following My Cat’s Schedule by Dr. Karyn Kanowski BVSc MRCVS (Veterinarian) appeared first on Catster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Catster.com.

Hi, I’m Dr. Karyn! Read my introduction to learn more about me and meet my five hilarious cats: Clutch, Cyril, Alex, Zelda, and Zazzles.

I grew up in Queensland, Australia, then lived in Alice Springs in the Northern Territory for a couple of years before moving to the UK. And before I had the five felines I share my home with today, there was Gilbert and Sullivan; two adorable female tabbies.

Gilbert was first on the scene, and Sully joined us two years later. They were never the best buddies I had hoped they would be, but they seemed to get along without conflict, happy to share space on my bed and different perches on the cat tree. After about a year, however, we began to suspect that all was not well when Sully started peeing in all places that weren’t a litter box.

Sully’s Problematic Peeing

Shopping bags, handbags, and shoes were her favorites – particularly embarrassing when they belonged to guests. There was the occasional incident on my bed, but by far the worst was when she piddled on the steam mop – steaming cat urine is an unforgettable experience. My Dad would argue that the most regrettable urination situation was the one in the fruit bowl, which was only discovered after he’d sliced a banana on his breakfast cereal. At least it was a fruit from which the skin was completely removed before eating!

If you’ve ever had to deal with inappropriate feline urination, you might be familiar with some of the tips, tricks, and techniques we might have employed to tackle our wee problem:

• Urinalysis to rule out inflammation, infection, or crystals
• Pheromone diffusers and sprays to help her feel settled
• Adding an extra litter box to the 3 we already had, in a new location with a different type of litter
• Cleaning any soiled surface with an enzymatic cleaner designed specifically for this purpose

Some of these methods helped for a time, but eventually, the urination would return. The places she was piddling suggested that this was territorial behavior, choosing vertical surfaces, my bed, and items that regularly entered and exited the house. The problem was clear: despite appearances, Sully felt threatened by Gilbert, and was employing passive-aggressive tactics to try to improve her position in the home.

Sully’s Persistent Problematic Urination

Unfortunately, realizing this was the problem did nothing to help me find a solution, but it did demonstrate that there can be pretty intense friction between cats that appear to be getting along just fine.

This was an ongoing problem for my family and I right up until the time when I moved to Alice Springs, bringing Gilbert and Sully with me. I had prepped the new house with pheromone diffusers and sprays, and placed litter boxes in a few different locations to give them plenty of options. When I first let them out of their travel crates, they spent the first 48 hours huddled together behind the toilet, barely moving an inch. Afterwards, they began to bravely explore their new home, including their newly erected outdoor catio.

And guess what? The entire time we lived in the red center, there was never a single territorial pee. Every urination was contained within the box, and I never had to buy another bottle of urine cleaner.

Lessons from Sully’s Problematic Urination

So what changed?

Well, I have a theory.

When Sully came into the Queensland house, Gilbert had been there for a couple of years, comfortable and settled in her well-established territory, so Sully employed her pheromonal defense system. When we moved to Alice Springs, they entered the house as equals, sharing in the trauma of relocation and new territory.

So does that mean that you need to move house to stop your cat from marking their territory? Hopefully not! It’s not a particularly economical solution! But, I had a friend employ a version of this method when she was having the same problem with her cats. Like Sully, one of her cats had joined the house later than the others and had taken to urinating on various items and areas. Having tried everything else, she took my advice and sent her three cats to stay at a cattery for a week. While they were gone, she did a thorough clean of the house, furniture, bedding, and clothes, even using a UV lamp to check for traces of pee.

Lo and behold; when the three felines returned home together, the territorial urination stayed away.

It may seem like an extreme way to approach this problem, but if you are dealing with inappropriate urination in a multi-cat household, and you have explored all possible causes and solutions, a week away could be just what you need to keep the cat pee smell away! At least it’s worth a try.

The post How to Stop Your Cat Peeing in the House (Without Moving Across the Country) by Dr. Karyn Kanowski BVSc MRCVS (Veterinarian) appeared first on Catster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Catster.com.

Hi, I’m Dr. Karyn! Read my introduction to learn more about me and meet my five hilarious cats: Clutch, Cyril, Alex, Zelda, and Zazzles.

Zelda has a really annoying habit, and I’m embarrassed to admit how long it took me to realize she was trying to tell me something.

Several times a day I would hear the tell-tale ‘clink clink clink’ of her paw raking over the ceramic water bowl. She would do this 10-20 times before settling down to have a drink, leaving traces of black fur and cat litter in her wake. The sound wasn’t annoying, it was the water contamination she would leave behind, meaning that I would have to change the water multiple times throughout the day.

It wasn’t until I was talking to a client about why her cat preferred to drink from her toilet rather than her water bowl, that I realized what Zelda has been trying to tell me.

The Message Was Clear

Okay, so I might be anthropomorphising a bit by saying that Zelda has been trying to send me a message, but I should have been able to figure out why she insisted on paddling in her bowl, a lot sooner than I did.

When people ask “How Can I Get My Cat To Drink More Water?”, or “Why Won’t My Cat Drink From The Bowl?”, there are some basics to consider:

1. A Good View:

A cat likes to be able to keep an eye on their surroundings when they’re having a drink, so a spot with a good aspect will be appreciated.

2. A Quiet Place:

Cats don’t want to quench their thirst in a high-traffic area.

3. The Right Stuff:

Ceramic and stainless steel are in, plastic is out.

4. Proximity to Food and Toilet:

No one wants to eat and drink where they poop, and while you want their water bowl to be near the food, you don’t want to place them side-by-side. Why? It all comes down to their wild ancestry.

In the wild, an old carcass lying in or near the water could indicate contamination, so a wild feline will look for another source. In the domestic world, water that sits too close to the food bowl can become contaminated with food, making it much less desirable.

5. Motion = Freshness:

As a general rule, a moving body of water is a fresh one, free from stagnation and less likely to be contaminated, which is where water fountains can really help, and also what I realized I was missing.

I Quickly Corrected My Mistake

Once the initial embarrassment of realizing I had completely dropped the ball on my feline water provisions, I went straight online to look for a high-capacity drinking fountain, and was lucky enough to find one that was pretty as well!

In addition to the various water bowls already located throughout the house, I now have one that ticks every box:

	Previous Bowl	New Fountain
A Good View			It doesn’t get much better than this!
A Quiet Place			The office is a low traffic, dog-free zone.
The Right Stuff			The fountain is ceramic.
Proximity to Food & Toilet			Food and litter boxes are on the ground.
Motion = Freshness			Multiple levels keeps the water constantly moving.

Things to Keep In Mind

• Make sure you’re buying a water fountain designed for pets: ornamental and garden fountains may not be made from materials appropriate for drinking from.
• Keep power cords safe: This is particularly important if you have a cat that likes to chew things. You might want to think about investing in a power cord protector.
• Keep them topped up: if the water level drops below a certain level, the motor can burn out. This is also something to keep in mind if you’re going away.
• They still need to be cleaned: although the moving water means that you can often get away with just topping them up, you will still need to give them a proper clean at least once a week.

So now I have a lovely, decorative fountain that the cats all enjoy drinking from, Zelda is no longer swirling her paw around in the bowl, and I know that all the cats are drinking enough fresh water.

The only problem now is that the gentle trickling sound makes me need to pee!

The post Zelda Likes Her Water Shaken, Not Stirred (with Video) by Dr. Karyn Kanowski BVSc MRCVS (Veterinarian) appeared first on Catster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Catster.com.

If you live in a country where rabies is present in the wildlife population, vaccinating your pets against this deadly disease is not just essential to help save their life, but it may also be a legal requirement. As with so many things in the US, the laws and guidelines regarding rabies vaccination differ between states. Several states have no state law enforcing rabies vaccination, while in others it is compulsory for cats, dogs, and ferrets to be vaccinated, even if they do not venture outside.

Once you’ve navigated the legalities of rabies vaccination, you will now be faced with more inconsistencies, like rabies vaccines that need to be given annually versus those that are only given every 3 years. While it’s up to you to find out what your legal obligations are regarding rabies vaccination, we can help you out when it comes to understanding the different types of vaccines, vaccination schedules, and whether there is one that is best for your cat. But first, let’s brush up on our knowledge about the rabies virus itself.

Rabies Virus in Cats

The rabies virus can affect any mammalian species and is transmitted through the saliva, usually through a bite, although contact with an open wound can also lead to infection. Interestingly, although cats are the most commonly reported rabid species in the United States, there are no recorded cases of cat-to-cat transmission of the disease.

The virus attacks the nervous system, producing signs such as:

The disease will usually progress into two forms:

Diagnosis is very difficult, with definitive diagnosis requiring post-mortem examination of brain tissue. Additionally, rabies can mimic several different diseases.

Unvaccinated cats suspected of being infected with rabies must be euthanized immediately or kept in isolation for 6 months. Vaccinated cats must be given another vaccination dose and closely observed for 45 days. Hybrid cats, such as the Ocicat or Savannah cats, can be vaccinated against rabies, but their vaccination status is not formally recognized, and if a hybrid pet bites a human, the law may require them to be euthanized to be tested for rabies virus.

Vaccination Is Key

With the high risk of transmission to humans, particularly in its furious form, vaccination is the most important step you can take to protect yourself and your cat, irrespective of your state’s legislation. Rabies vaccines are considered to be highly protective against infection, with vaccine failure rarely reported.

According to the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA), the recommended vaccination schedule for cats is as follows:

An animal is considered to be fully protected 28 days after the first vaccination, and immediately following subsequent vaccinations, provided they are given within the recommended schedule. These dates need to be strictly adhered to, particularly regarding travel.

1-, 2-, or 3-Year Vaccines—What’s the Difference?

This is where things get a bit confusing, but stay with us. Firstly, we need to talk about adjuvants in vaccines.

Adjuvanted vs. Non-Adjuvanted

An adjuvant is a substance that increases the body’s immune response to vaccination, which is great from a protective point of view, but it is what causes most of the side effects of vaccination, such as lethargy, fever, swelling, and pain. For cats, there is an additional risk associated with adjuvanted vaccines: feline injection site sarcoma (FISS). The vaccinations most commonly implicated in FISS formation are those for feline leukemia virus (FeLV) and rabies virus.

To try to reduce the risks of FISS, vaccine intervals have been altered to minimize the risks of sarcoma formation while maintaining high levels of immunity, which is why most vaccines are recommended to be given every 3 years once a cat has had their initial booster, about 12 months after their kitten vaccination. Although there are canine studies that have indicated immunity can last up to 8 years in some individuals, a balance must be struck between minimizing the potential risks of adverse vaccine reactions and public health implications.

An additional step has been taken by the company Purevax, which uses a recombinant canarypox virus to safely confer immunity against FeLV and rabies, without the need for an adjuvant. The FeLV vaccine is currently only licensed for annual vaccination intervals, but in the UK, the rabies vaccine is licensed for 3-yearly re-vaccination, following the booster given 12 months after the primary vaccination.

In the US, there are two versions of the Purevax rabies vaccine: a 1-year and a 3-year injection, with the only difference being the labeling. Based on the differing laws that exist in different US regions, we can only assume that the two formulations have been created to make it easier for vets to comply with this legislation. However, there are cases where vets are only using the 1-year formulation, mistakenly believing that it provides better protection than the 3-yearly vaccine.

So, Which Vaccine Is Better?

Given the high level of protection given by the non-adjuvanted Purevax rabies 3-year vaccine, there seems to be no doubt that this is the clear winner in terms of minimizing risks while keeping your cat and family protected. However, for cats that have a health condition or are immunocompromised, an adjuvanted vaccine may provide better protection, as non-adjuvanted vaccines rely on a strong immune response to provide future protection.

With the exception of California, which requires cats to be vaccinated every 2 years after their initial course, vaccination requirements in the US appear to be in accordance with the product being used. However, it is important to check with your local government body to ensure that you are complying with their laws.

Most veterinary clinics will only carry one or two vaccine brands, so you may need to phone around to find one that uses the vaccine you prefer, following the schedule set out by the AAHA. Talk to your vet about their recommendations and experience, as there may be other geographic and individual factors to consider.

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Final Thoughts

Rabies is an extremely dangerous and deadly virus, and the best way for you to protect yourself, your family, and your pets is through vaccination. Even if you live in an area where rabies infection is uncommon, even a low risk is too high when it comes to this virus.

Many of the concerns of the past regarding adverse reactions to vaccines, particularly with regard to cats, have been significantly reduced through changing vaccine schedules and the creation of a reliable, non-adjuvanted version of the rabies vaccine. Unlike the non-adjuvanted FeLV vaccine, the Purevax rabies vaccine is actually licensed for a 3-yearly dosing, giving an ideal compromise between minimizing side effects and maximizing protection. Be aware that a non-adjuvanted vaccine may not be appropriate for cats with health conditions or compromised immune systems. In these cases, a 3-yearly adjuvanted vaccine would be the safest option.

The confusing labeling and variation in state and local laws surrounding rabies vaccination can make it difficult to know what is best for your feline family member, but hopefully, you can use this information to talk to your vet about your options.

Featured Image Credit: bmf-foto.de, Shutterstock

The post 1-Year vs. 3-Year Rabies Vaccine for Cats: Which Is Better? (Vet Answer) by Dr. Karyn Kanowski BVSc MRCVS (Veterinarian) appeared first on Catster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Catster.com.

Apart from a few minor deviations, including a brief Jurassic Park-induced obsession with becoming a paleontologist, I have always wanted to be a vet. One of my earliest memories was of discovering the body of our cat, Bindi, on the side of the road and desperately wanting to be able to “wake her up.”

When I was in high school, I started to worry about how I would handle euthanasia. If I couldn’t even cope with watching a film where a pet died, how on Earth would I be able to be the one to put an animal to sleep? This worried me so much that I put off going to vet school for several years until I felt ready to take on the emotional challenges that come with the job.

Losing a pet never gets any easier, but over time, dealing with death in veterinary practice does become less harrowing. But it’s not because we become less sensitive; it’s that in the vast majority of cases, when we euthanize a pet, we are doing them a great kindness, and in many ways, euthanasia is a real gift. Vets do get sad when they put a cat down, but we learn how to cope with that sadness in a healthy way.

What Are the Reasons for Euthanasia?

In veterinary practice, the main reason for a cat to be put down is to prevent suffering. Whether it be old age, severe injuries, or incurable illness, euthanasia is the treatment for the untreatable. It’s a highly controversial issue in human medicine, but I have such sympathy for the patients, doctors, and loved ones faced with a future of pain, indignity, and misery, with no chance of a cure. In the veterinary world, we are able to spare our patients such suffering.

The times when euthanasia isn’t so welcome is when cats are put to sleep for reasons of overpopulation, minor behavioral issues, a lack of money to treat an illness, or a lack of willingness to even pursue treatment. Fortunately, this isn’t a situation that I have encountered very often, but when I do, I tend to feel more anger and frustration than sorrow. However, I do feel sadness when I have to end a life that could have been saved.

Vets who work in animal shelters sadly have to deal with this sort of situation, not just on a daily basis but multiple times a day. Through necessity, vets in these roles often compartmentalize this aspect of their work, but the high suicide rates among these dedicated professionals tell us that the sadness and frustration that come from doing this sort of work can easily turn into hopelessness and despair.

What Is the Hardest Part About Euthanasia?

The worry and anxiety I had about putting pets to sleep was always based on the death of the pet. What I didn’t realize is that it’s the people left behind that often make euthanasia difficult. Although we do try to maintain a certain amount of professional distance in our work, it’s inevitable that there will be patients and people who make a big impact on your heart. The funny thing is that it’s impossible to predict which ones will trigger tears, and it’s not always the ones you would expect.

I have had cases where I have been treating a cat for months, even years, and got to know their people quite well, but when the time came to say goodbye, I was strangely philosophical about it. Then there was the elderly gentleman, whom I had never met before, who brought his elderly cat in to be put down. This kitty was ancient and had clearly been cherished by his human. He was a lovely old man fighting back tears as his best mate slipped away. And knowing that, at his age, he is unlikely to have another pet, this is the situation that brings me to tears.

Will I Know When the Time Is Right?

Knowing if and when you may need to have your cat put down is a very personal and individual decision. It will depend on your cat’s age, health condition, prognosis, and living situation. Here are some questions that I found have helped others make this decision:

It’s something that you should talk to your vet about, as they will be able to give you a better idea of the prognosis of your cat’s situation. If you would like to talk to a vet without leaving home, an online service like PangoVet can be a good way to get some advice about your options and whether your cat is likely to improve with treatment.

The Irony

When I was reflecting on my work and how I cope with the day-to-day stress, emotional strain, and compassion fatigue, I realized something quite ironic. I felt sad about how I have been able to emotionally distance myself from the sadness of death in my job. Yes, you read that correctly. I was feeling sad about not feeling sad!

Through necessity, vets have to put up boundaries so that we don’t become overwhelmed by the emotion that comes with caring for animals, and I started to feel concerned about how successful I had become in keeping my feelings in check.

Although it is important—if not essential—to establish these boundaries to protect ourselves, we need to be careful not to become completely detached.

Final Thoughts

Euthanasia is an important part of pet ownership and veterinary care, and I am grateful to be able to have access to it. Being able to end a cat’s suffering when all other options have been exhausted is a gift that I would never want to do this work without. Vets do get sad when we have to put down a cat, but we are usually able to maintain enough distance from our patients so that we do not become emotionally burned out.

There will always be cats and people that affect me more than others, and I would prefer that to be the case. While a certain amount of detachment is necessary, I would never want that to cross over into indifference, but I think there’s very little chance of that.

Featured Image Credit: Gleb Usovich, Shutterstock

The post Do Vets Get Sad When They Have to Put Down a Cat? Tales From a Vet by Dr. Karyn Kanowski BVSc MRCVS (Veterinarian) appeared first on Catster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Catster.com.

Hi, I’m Dr. Karyn! Read my introduction to learn more about me and meet my five hilarious cats: Clutch, Cyril, Alex, Zelda, and Zazzles.

You know that feeling of rage you get when someone refers to your pet as “just a dog” or “just a cat”? Well, I feel the same way when someone uses the phrase “just a moggie”. If you’re not familiar with the term, ‘moggie’ is basically the feline version of mongrel. They are also known as Domestic Shorthair, Domestic Medium hair, or Domestic Long haired cats. Whether they are a DSH, DMH, or DSH, there is nothing ‘just’ about these marvelous cats.

There are five cats in my house and not a purebred among them. I don’t have anything against a pedigree puss, but I’ve always been a sucker for the less ostentatious feline variety.

Over the many millennia that they have deigned humans worthy of their company, cats have mostly been spared the major physical manipulations that selective breeding has bestowed on dogs. In the vast majority of cases, feline breeds are largely differentiated by their coats and temperaments, with relatively few alterations to their anatomy. With the exception of the squishy-faces of Persians, cartilage abnormalities of Scottish Folds, and dwarfism in the Munchkin breed, most cats have the same basic form and function. But, as with any animal that has been selectively bred, there are also some invisible traits that are seen more commonly in purebreds, such as cardiac disease in Maine Coons, diabetes in the Burmese, and kidney disease in Persian cats.

So when asked the question “which cat breed is considered to be the healthiest?” my answer is always going to be the moggie.

It’s All About Hybrid Vigor

When a population of cats is allowed to breed without interference, the ultimate result is, quite literally, the opposite of inbreeding. The cats that win the right to reproduce are the healthiest individuals with the strongest genetics, which means that the physical traits that we humans might prefer are rapidly diluted within a few generations. The resultant population contains a mixture of genes that give the greatest chance of survival, and this is known as ‘hybrid vigor’ – strength through outbreeding.

If you look at a population of feral cats – and I’m talking about proper, free-ranging cats, not just the local strays – you might notice that they tend to be mostly short or medium haired, with tabbies, tortoiseshells, black, and white being the most common colors seen. The genes for these coat colors are dominant, so when cats aren’t being selected for breeding from a limited gene pool, they will eventually take over.

House of the Dominant Genes

In my little gang, we have all the dominant coat colors represented:

• Clutch: White
• Zelda: Black
• Cyril: Tabby
• Alex: Ginger
• Zazzles: Tortoiseshell

They also come from a mixture of backgrounds: 2 strays, 1 re-homed, 2 adopted from unplanned litters, and 0 from breeders. I am not here to cast shade on the world of feline pedigree breeding, I am merely pointing out that the more ‘ordinary’ appearance of moggies is also an indication of health and hybrid vigor.

Never ‘Just a Moggie’

I’m not suggesting that we should be releasing our cats to breed indiscriminately – that’s the last thing I would want to encourage! But I would like us to look beyond appearances before dismissing a non-pedigree cat as inferior when the truth is that cats with more ‘common’ or ‘boring’ coat colors are just flashing their superior genes.

And let’s face it, there is no such thing as an average or ordinary cat – they are all pretty darn special!

The post Let’s Hear It For the Moggies! An Ode to Mixed-Breed Cats by Dr. Karyn Kanowski BVSc MRCVS (Veterinarian) appeared first on Catster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Catster.com.

Hi, I’m Dr. Karyn! Read my introduction to learn more about me and meet my five hilarious cats: Clutch, Cyril, Alex, Zelda, and Zazzles.

Check out Part 1: Dogs Don’t Take Days Off at Dogster.com.

This week, I have decided to have a bit of a moan, and talk to you about how life with five cats and five dogs isn’t always amusing stories and funny anecdotes. It is also a lot of work. I’m not looking for sympathy, and I do love sharing my home with so many pets, but I also don’t want to ignore the harsh realities of living with animals, particularly, a lot of animals.

Some people have completely unrealistic expectations of living with pets, and even go to cruel extremes like de-clawing their cats to keep their furniture looking brand new.

I have a couple of go-to phrases I like to trot out when talking to people about having pets (and I believe they also apply to having children!):

• An immaculate house or pets: pick one (you can’t have both).
• If you don’t feel a little bit mean some of the time, you’re going to regret it later
  • This one is particularly relevant to puppy training!

We do our best to keep our home clean and presentable; choosing furniture that won’t easily show the effects of cat claws or absorb any doggy odors, investing in a couple of good quality vacuum cleaners, and we are currently in the process of replacing much of our carpet with hard flooring. Instead of fighting against the side-effects of pet ownership, we try to make choices and adjustments that make those side-effects less of a problem. But, some days it feels like a lot of work.

Having recently returned from a visit from my petless parents, I found myself feeling a bit overwhelmed and resentful of the many time-consuming responsibilities that pet ownership involves, and I’m sure I’m not the only pet lover to have felt that way from time to time. This feeling of ennui has brought me to this week’s topic on the harsh realities of living with pets, of which there are enough to have two parts!

Things You Need To Know About Life With Cats

There are a lot of different choices and arrangements you can make that will help minimize the downsides to living with cats, but if you think that life with cats will be low maintenance and smooth sailing, it’s time for a reality check.

Hairballs and Vomiting Are Inevitable

Regular brushing, choosing the right food, and using supplements can really help reduce the amount of hairballs and associated vomiting you’ll find around the house, but unless you’re living with a hairless breed, you should accept that you will have the joy of dealing with the occasional feline upchuck. Just this morning I heard the telltale sound coming from inside my wardrobe and was too late to intercept.

Cat Litter Has a Life of Its Own

It sticks to paws and fur, gets thrown around, it even ends up in water bowls; cat litter always seems to spread itself around the home. Larger particles and litter mats can definitely help, but don’t be surprised to find bits of litter scattered about the place. When I find little particles of cat litter on my bedspread and nightstand, I just pray that it’s clean!

Cats Have Claws

And they will use them. Even if you provide scratching posts, cat trees, and feline furniture, there is a pretty good chance that your cat will flex those talons on your sofa, carpet, or clothing. Keeping their claws trimmed can help minimize the damage, but if you don’t think you can handle a claw mark here or there, cats might not be the pet for you.

Not only do our cats enjoy sharpening their claws on our carpets, they also maliciously seek to tear it up if they find themselves excluded from a room. If we need to shut them in my office, or lock them out of the bedroom, we know there’ll be a patch of carpet bearing the marks of their protest. Hence, we are gradually transitioning to hard floors!

You Will Have Cat Hair on EVERYTHING

One thing I find really frustrating is when my clothes come out of the washing machine with more hair than they went in with. Even when it was just me and Clutch, I was constantly in search of the ‘next big thing’ to combat pet hair on clothing, furniture, and carpets. Multiply that by ten and you can probably imagine how hairy our lives are! When I returned home from my trip away I was rather sad to find that a number of clothing items had been pulled from their hangers and used as comfy bedding in the bottom of my wardrobe.

There Is Always More Good Than Bad

You might be wondering why I have so many pets when I have so much to complain about, but it’s not all bad! Fortunately, the more negative aspects of living with pets are significantly outweighed by the positives, which is why my posts are usually of a more upbeat nature! How can I stay grumpy when I’ve got the likes of vacuum-loving Clutch, broken Fred, inconvenient Cyril, and water-addict Kodah to entertain me? There will be days when you look longingly at people without pets, with their scratch-free furniture and clean clothes, but if you’re like me, you’ll choose a hairy shirt over a pet-free home any day of the week.

The post The Harsh Reality of Life with 10 Pets Part 2: Hairballs, Cat Litter & Fur on EVERYTHING by Dr. Karyn Kanowski BVSc MRCVS (Veterinarian) appeared first on Catster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Catster.com.

If you’re familiar with Parkinson’s disease in humans, you might have asked yourself if cats can get Parkinson’s. There is a rare condition in cats with a similar name, but it is very different from the aforementioned neurological disease.

Wolff-Parkinson-White Syndrome is a congenital heart defect and completely unrelated to human Parkinson’s. Confusingly, it is sometimes referred to as Parkinson’s in cats, which is very misleading.

Let’s take a closer look at Wolff-Parkinson-White Syndrome so that you’ll be able to explain why it should not be called Parkinson’s.

Can Cats Get Parkinson’s?

Parkinson’s disease is an incurable, progressive movement disorder of the nervous system in humans. It causes tremors, stiffness, and impaired balance. It does not affect cats.

Cats showing clinical signs similar to those associated with Parkinson’s Disease need to be assessed by a veterinarian, as there are a number of diseases and toxins that can produce neurological signs.

What Is Wolff-Parkinson-White Syndrome?

Wolff-Parkinson-White Syndrome (WPW) is an abnormality of the electrical activity of the heart muscle that produces life-threatening arrhythmias. This particular type of ventricular pre-excitation (VPE) was first described in a 1930 human case series published by three clinicians named, unsurprisingly, Louis Wolff, Sir John Parkinson, and Dr. Paul Dudley White.

The normal contraction of the heart muscle is driven by electrical activity, which is coordinated by the sinoatrial node and atrioventricular (AV) nodes to ensure that the smaller atria fill and empty before the larger ventricles contract.

In patients with WPW, the electrical activity can bypass the AV node via an accessory pathway, causing abnormalities in the electrical impulses as they travel through the heart muscle. If the ventricle is stimulated to contract too early, it will lead to interrupted blood flow and abnormal blood pressure, which will lead to poor circulation, organ damage, and syncope (fainting).

What Are the Signs of WPW?

WPW is not a widely recognized condition in cats, so there is very little information about feline cases and treatment. A 2023 paper on the subject was only able to identify 17 published cases, a group too small to be able to form any reliable patterns or predictions. However, 16 of the 17 cases were male, which corresponds to a higher incidence in human males. Five cats died as a result of their cardiac disease, but overall, lifespan was evidently not significantly impacted by WPW. In humans, only around 0.1 to 0.3% of the population is estimated to have WPW, with 40 to 65% of those having no clinical signs.

The most common symptoms of WPW in humans are dizziness, shortness of breath, chest pain, palpitations, syncope, collapse, and death.

In cats, lethargy was the most common clinical sign, with rapid breathing (tachypnea) and syncope seen in some cases. These clinical signs can be attributed to tachyarrhythmia (fast, irregular heartbeat), which is the most common feature of WPW.

Sudden death is possible but is rarely seen in human cases.

How Is WPW Diagnosed?

WPW is not a condition that will be diagnosed using just a stethoscope. An electrocardiogram (ECG or EKG), which is a non-invasive test to measure the electrical activity of the heart, will show pattern abnormalities that are consistent with ventricular pre-excitement, i.e., electrical activity traveling through the ventricle earlier than it should. Generally, an echocardiogram (cardiac ultrasound) will also be performed to check for anatomical changes or defects.

It is likely that WPW is more common than we realize, but cases may go undiagnosed if they are asymptomatic or do not cause obvious arrhythmias.

How Is WPW Treated?

In humans, the treatment of WPW depends on the presence and severity of clinical signs. In patients with mild or no clinical signs, monitoring is usually advised. Because cats cannot tell us if they experience chest pain or palpitations, treatment tends to be more proactive in feline cases.

A number of different cardiac treatments have been used, depending on the way in which the disease has presented. They include:

Can WPW Be Prevented?

Based on what we currently know, there is no way to prevent WPW in cats. In humans, only a small percentage of cases have been found to have a hereditary component, and genetic testing of cats prior to breeding is not possible or likely to become available due to the rarity of the condition. We would, however, recommend excluding any cat with a known cardiac condition from any breeding programs.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why Is It Called Parkinson’s in Cats if It’s Not the Same as Parkinson’s in Humans?

WPW is sometimes referred to as Parkinson’s in cats because of the similar signs, but this is misleading, as cats cannot get Parkinson’s.

When Should I Take My Cat to the Vet?

You should take your cat to the vet as soon as you notice something is off with your cat. As with most things, the sooner you get your pet diagnosed, the quicker they can be put on a treatment plan and the better off they’ll be.

Final Thoughts

The disease known in humans as Parkinson’s does not occur in cats. Humans and cats do, however, share the condition known as Wolff-Parkinson-White syndrome (WPW), which is occasionally and erroneously referred to as Parkinson’s in cats. The only thing the two diseases have in common is the Parkinson name.

WPW is a rare abnormality in the electrical activity of the heart, and it is one that you are unlikely to encounter. It can cause lethargy, fainting, rapid breathing, and (rarely) sudden death.

There are many diseases and conditions that can produce neurological signs, so if you have been worried that your cat may have Parkinson’s Disease, please make an urgent appointment with your vet.

• You might also be interested in: Can Cats Have Bipolar Syndrome? Our Vet Explains

Featured Image Credit: Pressmaster, Shutterstock

The post Parkinson’s in Cats (Wolff-Parkinson-White Syndrome): Our Vet Explains Prevention, Signs & Treatment by Dr. Karyn Kanowski BVSc MRCVS (Veterinarian) appeared first on Catster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Catster.com.